heart & hook glossary
Welcome to our Custom Apparel Glossary
At Heart and Hook Apparel, we believe custom gear should reflect your brand at its best. This guide breaks down the essential terms behind screen printing, embroidery, heat transfer, and promo product customization—without the confusing jargon.
Whether it’s your first order or you’re familiar with the process, knowing the terminology makes it easier to get exactly what you need. Clear communication leads to better results—and this glossary is here to help you every step of the way.
screen printing
Screen
A mesh stencil used to apply ink to a garment. Each color in your design needs its own screen.
Good to Know: Complex prints can require multiple screens—one for each color layer.
Squeegee
The tool used to push ink through the screen mesh and onto the fabric.
Pro Tip: The angle and pressure of the squeegee can dramatically impact the final look of your print.
Soft Hand
Refers to how soft or smooth the print feels when touched.
Pro Tip: If you want a super soft print, ask for water-based or discharge inks.
Flash Cure
A quick heat exposure between color layers to dry the ink before the next color is applied.
Quick Insight: Timing is key—too much heat, and the print can crack; too little, and colors may smear.
Underbase
A layer of white ink printed first to help colors pop on dark garments.
Good to Know: Without an underbase, bright inks can look muted or faded on dark fabrics.
Registration
The precise alignment of multiple screens in a multi-color design.
Good to Know: Even a slight shift in registration can throw off the whole design—accuracy matters!
Plastisol Ink
A popular, durable ink that sits on top of the fabric and offers rich, opaque color.
Insider Note: Plastisol inks don’t dry until they’re heat-cured, making them ideal for extended print runs.
Discharge Ink
An ink that removes the shirt’s dye and replaces it with pigment, resulting in a soft, vintage feel.
Did You Know? Discharge ink works best on 100% cotton and delivers a print that feels like it’s part of the fabric.
Embroidery
Custom Embroidery
Personalized designs stitched directly onto garments or accessories.
Good to Know: Embroidery adds a professional, long-lasting finish—perfect for team wear, gifts, and brand visibility.
Stitch Count
The total number of stitches in a design—impacts pricing and production time.
Good to Know: Higher stitch counts = more time and thread, which can increase cost.
Fill Stitch
A stitch used to cover large areas with thread.
Quick Insight: Fill stitches add weight—use wisely to avoid stiff garments.
Satin Stitch
A smooth, dense stitch ideal for borders and lettering.
Detail Matters: Best for text and clean outlines—too wide, and it may snag or pucker.
Backing
Stabilizer placed behind fabric during embroidery.
Essential Support: Choosing the right backing is crucial—too thin, and your design may shift or warp.
Digitizing
The process of converting artwork into a machine-readable embroidery file that tells the machine how to stitch the design.
Pro Tip: Clean, high-contrast artwork digitizes better—avoid overly complex designs for best results.
Hooping
Secures the fabric in place during stitching.
Pro Tip: Uneven hooping causes misalignment—make sure it’s snug and flat.
Thread Tension
Refers to the tightness of the thread during embroidery.
Thread Check: Incorrect tension leads to loose stitches or thread breaks—keep it balanced!
Thread Colors
The color options available for embroidery, matched to your logo or design.
Pro Tip: Most shops use Pantone matching—send your brand colors for the most accurate results!
heat transfer
Heat Press
A machine that uses heat and pressure to transfer designs onto garments.
Good to Know: Always pre-press your garment to remove moisture—it helps adhesion.
HTV (Heat Transfer Vinyl)
Vinyl cut into shapes or text, heat pressed onto garments.
Weed Wisely: The simpler the design, the easier and faster the weeding process.
Transfer Paper
Paper used to print designs for heat application.
Pro Tip: Choose paper based on fabric type—light vs. dark paper makes a big difference.
Carrier Sheet
The clear backing that holds HTV designs in place.
Insider Tip: Don’t remove the carrier too early—wait for it to cool slightly for a cleaner peel.
DTF (Direct to Film)
Prints designs onto film, then heat pressed onto garments.
Did You Know? DTF works on almost any fabric, including cotton, polyester, and blends.
Weeding
Removing excess vinyl before transfer.
Pro Tip: A lightbox or weeding tool can save time and prevent detail loss.
Custom Apparel & Merchandising
Custom Merchandising
Creating branded apparel and gear tailored to a business, event, or campaign.
Good to Know: This includes everything from t-shirts and hats to tote bags and water bottles—designed to represent your brand and reach your audience.
Decoration Method
How your design is applied—screen printing, embroidery, heat transfer, sublimation, or laser engraving.
Pro Tip: Choose the method based on your design, garment type, and intended use.
Minimum Order
The smallest number of units you can order for a specific product or service.
Pro Tip: Some decoration methods like screen printing require higher minimums, while embroidery can be more flexible.
Artwork File
The logo or design file used for production—ideally in a high-resolution or vector format like .AI, .EPS, or .PDF.
Pro Tip: Clear, properly sized artwork ensures better print quality and fewer setup delays.
Sizes & Fit
The range of available sizes and the general cut of the garment (e.g. unisex, slim fit, relaxed).
Good to Know: Size charts vary by brand—it’s worth checking before placing your order.
Blank Apparel
The undecorated garments (t-shirts, hoodies, hats, etc.) used before your logo or design is applied.
Insider Note: Choosing high-quality blanks sets the tone for your finished product—ask about fabric, fit, and durability.
Mockup
A visual preview of how your design will look on the selected product.
Good to Know: Always review and approve the mockup before production begins to avoid surprises.
Turnaround Time
The estimated time from approval to completion of your order.
Good to Know: Standard turnaround is often 7–14 business days. Rush options may be available.
